10 Ways to Kill Bed Bugs Yourself - Or at Least Control Them

Killing bed bugs yourself can be a daunting task. They can hide under base boards, the back of dresser drawers, behind light switches... just about anywhere. The adult bed bug is about the size of an apple seed and flat, until they feed that is. While bed bugs are not a heath danger (do not carry or transmit diseases), they are enough to keep you awake at night just thinking about them. A single bed bug bite can easily be mistaken for a mosquito bite and written off as such giving them time to multiply. Once you find one you can be assured that there are hundreds if not thousands more.

In the long run, a full blown infestation might require a professional exterminator. After all, how many is to many? Before you decide to take action, there are a couple of things to keep in mind. Bed bugs can live a year without feeding on a hosts blood (usually you). An adult female can lay 200 - 500 eggs in her lifetime. It generally takes an egg 50 days to mature. So whether you're a do-it-yourselfer or hire a pro, it will take several treatments and constant observation. With that said... If the problem has not gotten to far out of control there are several ways to win the fight against bedbugs. The first 3 listed here are required no matter what you do next

1* Wash everything in site in the hottest water you can find. Begbugs start dying off at around 114 degrees F. Then use a dryer on its hottest setting. Not out on the line to air dry. Temperature is key. In hot, dry climates (Phoenix for example) it is just as effective to out your bedding and cloths in a black garbage bag and set it out in the sun for an afternoon.

2* Vacuum. Vacuum every corner, crook and cranny. Vacuum the drapes, the box springs, the furniture, etc. Vacuum like your life depended on it. Bed bugs are not dirty critters. They don't care about crumbs or old food like cockroaches. But they need vacuumed up and then take the whole vacuum cleaner outside to change bags... Vacuum again.

3* Steam Clean. Now that you have their attention, combine #1 and #2. Put hot, HOT water in the steam cleaner and go over the room again.

4* Just as effective as heat is, cold works also. Problem is that it needs to stay below freezing for 2 weeks to work.

5* Biological warfare. Prior to WWII beg bugs were all but eliminated. Around that time the government outlawed DDTs. Sense then there numbers have been rising and forced tamer chemicals and traps. There are numerous chemicals on the market but nearly all of them are not intended to touch the skin. These are best meant for non-traffic areas, box springs, drapes, etc.

6* Mattress Bags. Depending on the level of bedbug infestation, your best bet may be to discard the mattress all together. For milder cases, the chemicals from #5 can be sprinkled on and injected into the mattress before you seal it in a waterproof mattress bag. They start at about $60 and go up depending on the size needed.

7* Diatomaceous Earth. This is the alternative to harsh chemicals. It is an all natural powder ground up from little tiny fossils of single-celled algae. They even put it in dog food as a preservative. On a microscopic level it has jagged edges that cut and kill the bedbugs as they crawl across it. Basically it is just dirt.

8* Traps and Tape. This is more for monitoring but flypaper, roach traps and the like will allow you to keep tabs on how effective your efforts have been so far. And then from any shipping supply store you can pickup double sided sticky tape to wrap around the sides of the mattress. Yet another way to trap and monitor bed bug traffic.

9* Thyme and tree leaf oil. These are a repellent more then anything else. It does not kill them. They get a whiff of it and head the other way. But remember that bed bugs can live a year without feeding so they are still reproducing.

10* Neem. Neem oil and neem extract. If you find that you have been attacked by bed bugs, this will sooth the itching and moisturize the skin. Matter of fact it is good for the skin whether you have bed bugs or not. Bonus is that it keeps the bedbugs off of you while sleeping.

There we have 7 ways to kill bed bugs and a few ways to monitor your progress in controlling bed bugs. The more you combine the above recommendations the better luck you will have before the need for an exterminator. Just a work of warning though... if you do break down and need to hire an exterminator, they will ask you to clean up anyway before they even show up. Get rid of clutter. ' ziplock ' bag all cloths, bedding, sheets, and so on. Vacuum and basically do everything mentioned above in 1 though 3.

In closing, know that before you begin, it will take weeks and months of constant cleaning, washing, monitoring, vacuuming over and over again to successfully kill the bed bugs throughout there whole life cycle. And hopefully you can catch it before it spreads through out the house. All it takes is a couple of stowaways in the laundry, luggage, sleeping bags or any fabric that you tote around.

Oh yes, you realize that bed bugs are real and they are out there. Now the next best step is to arm your self with knowledge. Visit my sight at http://www.wulliebull2.com/bed-bugs for a free mini-course on how to identify them, control and kill them HERE Article Source: expert=Brandon_McVey

Fertilizing For Beginners

There are a lot of good reasons to fertilize your lawn:

• Keeps it healthy
• Prevents disease
• Aids in the recovery of damage caused by foot traffic and animals
• Replaces lost nutrients
• Helps it maintain a vivid green color
• Promotes growth

The most important reason of all this is the ability to checkmate weed growth, this in turn saves you a huge amount of time as well as expenses which would ordinarily be incurred trying to get rid of them later on.

Two essential kinds of fertilizer are considered necessary to use in order to attain the goals of having a lush and healthy lawn:

Liquid Fertilizer tends to be fast acting and is usually absorbed quickly, while it is rather easy to apply, it tends to need reapplying at least every three to four weeks throughout the growing season.

Granular Fertilizer tends to work rather slowly and may a bit more difficult to apply, this usually means that you have to spread it across the whole lawn and water it for it to take effect. It tends to come in two main kinds:

1. Quick Release, which lasts about a month and is water-soluble
2. Slow Release, which can last between 8-12 weeks and is considered water in-soluble.

Despite the nature of fertilizer which you would rather use on your lawn, all kinds of fertilizer essentially contain three main ingredients:

1. Nitrogen to promote leaf production and a rich vivid green color.
2. Phosphorous to promote root growth
3. Potassium used to help promote a good root system development and prevent disease.

Whenever you're buying fertilizer you should ensure that the respective percentages of each kind of fertilizer matches the particular requirements of your precise grass type as well as the climate. You can make this determination by looking at the back of seed bags or asking your local nursery for the right suggestions.

Other than these three essential ingredients which are listed here, a number of fertilizers also tend to contain a weed control or weed killing element as well.

Pre-emergents are utilized in order to prevent the growth of any form of weed and they should be applied before they start to take hold of your yard.

Post-emergent may be used in killing weeds which have already taken root in your yard. They also do not harm the grass as well as other plants.

In order to find the best fertilizer in your yard, you should consider the following advice:

• Know Your Grass Type. Different grasses react differently to different fertilizers, you should ensure that your fertilizer matches your grass type.
• Test Your Soil for its PH Level. This will assist you in choosing the right fertilizer to complement the natural chemical balance of your soil.
• Determine Your Lawn Size. Choosing the right fertilizer is the primary step, using the right amount of fertilizer is also an essential factor in getting the job done properly.

Fertilizing a lawn shouldn't be a complicated task. All it takes is some amount of work and a small amount of knowledge. The most important thing is finding the best kind of fertilizer which works well with your kind of grass and to use it in the right amounts in order to get the best results.

Article Source by Guy_Starbuck

What Do Termite Inspection Professionals Do That Makes Their Service So Valuable?

Local environment, geography

What species of termite generally has been found in the local area? Are they arboreal nesters, mound nesters or opportunistic nesters? Do they have multiple connected nests or are they solitary? Do they have many colonizing flights per year or few? Is the local soil sandy or rocky? Are there natural permanent moisture sources available? What is the local available food source?

Local history

The estate where the home or building that is being inspected may not have looked like it does now forever. 200 years ago there may have been a very large stand of forest trees in the very place that is now covered in houses. Before the forest was cut down a sawmill may have been built to process the logs as they were cut. What happened to the stumps that were in the ground when the trees were felled? What happened to the large amount of sawdust that was a waste product over many years, is it still buried deep under the homes.

History of home or building being inspected

Has the home that is being inspected ever had any additions, particularly that changed the footprint of the building? Have regular inspections been carried out on the property? Have any major earth works been carried out near the foundations of the property? Have any large trees been removed recently? Were the stumps removed or are they still there unseen?

Treatment history (if any)

When the home was built or additions completed was any type of treatment carried out? Has any remedial or preventative treatment been carried out since construction? Have any of the neighbours had any termite control issues or treatments carried out recently? Have any of the neighbours had any termite baiting systems installed recently? What types of pesticides have been used when and how long do they last?

Recommendations for the future

Chemical treatments are not the only long term solution and it can in fact be argued that they should be only used as a last resort. The small environmental changes that we can make around our buildings can have a very positive impact on keeping our buildings termite free.

- Reduce moisture sources such as leaky taps, dripping hot water systems and leaking pipes.
- Reduce potential food sources by cleaning up any waste or inappropriately stored timbers and other products containing cellulose.
- Remove articles stored against the building that block our line of site and therefore do not properly allow inspection.
- Reduce the amount of items used in landscaping and gardening that contain cellulose and are therefore a good easy food source for termites.

In summary a trained termite inspector will know all of the above and will be bringing to your property a very large amount of information which may never be mentioned, but which plays a large part in his or her overall findings and recommendations. You cannot replace this depth of knowledge and it only comes after many years of experience in the industry.

Article is by Rowan Gregson http://www.pestec.com.au

Mosquito Traps - How to Get Rid of Mosquitoes While Sipping Daiquiris on the Veranda

Mosquitoes were made for hunting humans, what with their compound eyes capable of spotting the slightest movements and receptors so sensitive, they can detect the smell of exhaled breath. Lucky for us, those same abilities also tend to lead them straight into mosquito traps.

The traps work by mimicking the smell and sight of prey, fooling mosquitoes into sensing a blood meal close at hand. But when they get near, powerful fans capture them and force them into containers. Once in, they can't get out, and the mosquitoes die.

A good mosquito trap, properly placed and used, can attract and kill thousands of mosquitoes in a single night, while you are left free to enjoy your yard undisturbed. Over a period of a couple of months, the trap can decimate, possibly even collapse, the local mosquito population.

All it takes is a little work to get the machine set up and some regular, but minor maintenance to ensure peak performance. The mosquito trap will do the rest.

Unfortunately, mosquito control is a complicated task, and there isn't one easy solution. Mosquito traps by themselves won't make your insect troubles disappear altogether, but they are an integral part of keeping your home comfortable and safe.

Mosquitoes are always just a breath away

To understand the way a mosquito trap works, you first need to understand how and why mosquitoes hunt us.

OK, have you ever wondered how mosquitoes always seem to be able to find you, even in the dark? It's mostly your breath. That's not a joke. Simply exhaling is enough to draw in a blood-hungry mosquito.

When you let out a breath, tiny amounts of carbon dioxide are released into the air. Those little plumes of CO2 rise up and drift along on the breeze.

Mosquitoes have extremely sensitive receptors on their antennae that can detect trace amounts of CO2. They fly into the wind, searching for those traces, and, when they find them, follow the smell of the exhaled gas to its source.

According to University of Florida researchers, the CO2 plume from a person's breath can stir the senses of mosquitoes as far as 40 miles away. Fortunately, most mosquitoes can only fly one to three miles, tops.

As the mosquitoes get closer to the source, their two compound eyes - large rounded globes covered with tiny individual lenses - pick up movement and color, while their ocelli, or simple eyes, sense light waves.

People moving around, wearing bright colors, near electric lights are sure to catch their attention.

We smell like food to mosquitoes

Once mosquitoes are within 20 or 30 feet, their scent receptors begin to detect other smells, too.

That includes lactic acid on the skin and octenol, a chemical found in our sweat and in the exhalation of cows. Beyond that, human skin produces more than 340 chemical odors, and some smell better to mosquitoes than others, although which ones and why are still matters of research.

The task of identifying the smells is difficult because mosquitoes are attracted not by single odors, but by combinations of them. Figuring out the right combos depends mainly on time-consuming trial and error.

US Department of Agriculture scientists do know that mosquitoes are attracted by the smell of dirty socks and Limburger cheese - apparently the same bacteria develops on both - and they're also fond of certain soaps, lotions and perfumes, when combined with the natural smells of certain people.

Mosquitoes have shown preferences for people who excrete high amounts of uric acid and cholesterol through their skin, as well as people with high amounts of B vitamins in their systems. They also tend to choose larger people and pregnant women, likely because of the larger amounts of CO2 exhaled.

Basically, the more you sweat and the harder you breathe, the more attractive you are going to be to mosquitoes.

The mosquito moves in for the bite

The final giveaway is body temperature.

Sensors on the antennae can feel heat radiating from a person's body, helping the mosquito zero in on its prey. Exertion, alcohol, even wearing dark clothes - which radiate heat - can make you a hotter target.

Mosquitoes use the heat sensors to find capillaries pulsing with blood near the surface.

Now this may surprise you: When the bite comes, it will always come from a female mosquito. Both males and females feed on fruit and plant nectar, but only the female takes blood meals.

The females do it not for the food, but to aid in the reproductive process. Their eggs are fertilized by males within days of emerging from the pupal cocoon. However, their eggs don't fully develop until they've taken in protein from blood.

The mosquito lands and sinks her proboscis into the skin. The proboscis is a long, slender mouthpart with a pointed end for piercing. It contains two tubes, one which draws in blood, and a second that injects anti-coagulants to help keep the blood flowing.

She feeds until her abdomen is full, then flies away to rest a couple of days until she is ready to lay her eggs. At least, that's how it is supposed to happen.

Bug research leads to mosquito traps

Entomologists and mosquito control experts need specimens to examine, and that means they have to trap them.

For many years, they did it with the New Jersey Light Trap. Like its name implies, it is a simple device that uses a plain 25-watt bulb to draw mosquitoes toward a cylinder with a hidden fan that sucks the mosquitoes into a catch area.

But as scientists learned more about attractants, they began to incorporate them into the standard light traps. For example, knowing that carbon dioxide lures mosquitoes, they started adding dry ice, which releases the gas, increasing the numbers of mosquitoes lured in for the catch.

Studies showed that mosquito traps that used CO2 could catch 10-15 times more mosquitoes in a night than a New Jersey Light Trap.

In the late '90s, private companies got into the research, experimenting with human skin odors and ultraviolet light waves, and soon, there were newer, more efficient commercial mosquito traps on the market for home use.

All mosquito traps use some variation of the same four basic attractants to draw the insects: CO2, octenol, light, and heat. The differences lie in the designs of the attractants and the ways they are employed.

How do mosquito traps work?

One of the most successful mosquito trap brands, the Mega Catch, depends mainly on its unique lighting array and automated dispersal of synthetic human fragrance.

The machine fires off oscillating frequencies of visible and UV light that have been proven to attract the attention of mosquitoes. At the same time, the machine releases plumes of octenol to excite the insects' scent sensors.

Inside the Mega Catch traps, infrared heat sources give off warmth similar to a human body, luring the mosquitoes even closer. Once they are near enough, a fan catches them and forces them into a container.

Some models of the traps also use cannisters that release trace amounts of CO2 to mix with the octenol, increasing the effectiveness of the trap four-fold. Mega Catch traps, particularly the models that use both CO2 and octenol, can draw insects from as much as 150 feet away.

According to the American Mosquito Control Association, "A number of studies have shown that traps using CO2 and (octenol) normally catch numbers of mosquitoes several orders of magnitude more than their solely CO2-baited counterparts."

While the organization does not endorse specific products, it reports that the science behind the traps is solid.

Public health researchers in Australia tested the Mega Catch Mosquito Traps against another popular brand in 2004 and found that the Mega Catch mosquito trap outperformed the other on 10 of 12 nights, capturing more than 44,000 female mosquitoes from 17 species. The other trap caught 24,000 mosquitoes.

In another test conducted by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, the Mega Catch trapped more than 3,700 mosquitoes in a residential Florida neighborhood in one night, about three times more than a another brand of trap.

Clearing the mosquitoes from the air

Again, mosquito traps, even highly effective ones, aren't going to eliminate your mosquito problems entirely.

You still need to practice good mosquito control around your home by preventing standing water, employing biological controls, and possibly spraying. You'll also have to remember to use your mosquito trap properly and maintain it regularly.

One key to getting the most from your mosquito trap is making sure you put it in the proper place.

Don't put it near people because that just draws the mosquitoes toward their targets. The best placement is upwind, between the source of the mosquitoes - a neighbor's overgrown yard, or a nearby pond - and the spot where people gather, probably your deck or patio.

If possible, put the trap somewhere shaded because mosquitoes try to avoid the sun.

And don't only turn the trap on while you're outside. Run it continuously through mosquito season, especially during the peak feeding hours. Traps like the Mega Catch have settings that can turn the machine on and off at certain pre-selected times.

Remember, the more female mosquitoes you trap and kill, the fewer there will be to lay eggs. In six to eight weeks, the population will decrease to the point of collapse.

Occasionally, you'll need to clean out the catch containers, add new CO2 cannisters, and change out fresh octenol strips.

And then it should not be long before the whining of biting insects becomes an uncommon sound in your backyard.

Want to know more about getting rid of mosquitoes with Mosquito Traps? You can read more at - http://www.megacatch.com

Article Source: Ken Child

Landscaping Does Not Have to Cost a Second Mortgage

Foundation planting is a process popular among home builders and home owners, as it enhances the dimensions of your house and relates it to the ground. The most widely use foundation plant is evergreens, both for their stature and style and because of their ability to prosper in the shade.

If there are no evergreen plantings elsewhere on the property though, the process of evergreens around the house may give off a sinister or forbidding vibe. In this case you can resort to a variety of other options, like flowering shrubs, roses, or dwarf fruit trees in spring climes, and quince, forsythia or Japanese redleaf barberry, among others, in summer time.

In the planning stages for your foundation planning, consider the elevation of your house, at least as it relates to the immediate wall facing the planting, and also the size of the shrubs or trees you're considering planting when fully grown. You want to avoid blocking off windows with your plantings, as this will obscure your view and make your room gloomier. In the case of a wall which faces another home's wall with just a short distance between, this may not be a bad option though.

The entrance is generally the most important visual point of your house, so landscape brick plus planting to highlight your entrance and/or front porch is a good idea. Plantings in front of the porch and around the front walls of the house should be kept low and bowl-shaped to give the impression of a broader base and larger house.

For your backyard area, you can keep it attractive and elegant while still allowing room for the children to frolic about. While it may be tempting to place flower or plant beds all around the backyard, you should limit these to a small area that the kids will know to avoid playing around. Having a sunken or raised sandbox for the kids to play in is a great idea, though you may want to keep an eye on the cat or dog to make sure they aren't using it as their personal facilities.

Your yard will also need to contain service areas and a drying yard if needed. These areas should be out of sight from the patio, preferably tucked behind the garage or a shed, but close enough that they aren't an extra inconvenience. Remember that your compost pit should be a good distance away from any garden you may plan on having, so plan this in advance. Garden are ideal close to the back door, while the compost bin can be tucked in a far corner of the yard, along with piles of fire wood, a tool shed or storage locker, and any other services needed.

Vegetable gardens are a great source of fresh food that can prove quite bountiful. Tomato plants especially will likely need to be placed alongside fences and tied to them for support, otherwise you'll need to employ a lattice. These should also be shielded from the elements if possible by being tucked away into corners.

Article Source: Thomas Fyrd

How are Your Apples?

What will the 2008 apple crop be like? Only One knows for sure; and it is early. Right now, major US apple growing regions have been hit with a number of things that will affect the quality and quantity of this year's crop.

Frost


Earlier this Spring, frosts affected some apples in Washington State and Michigan. Fruit buds were killed, thus reducing some of the crop's potential.

June Drop


Apples in some areas, such as Michigan, experienced a very heavy June drop this year. Apple trees normally shed fruit this time of year. Growers also intentionally thin the crop in order to grow larger fruit. When too much drops, yield potential is decreased.


Hail


There have been a number of thunderstorms across Michigan, New York, Pennsylvania, and Virginia that have been hit by hail. Hail can damage the fruit, knocking it out of contention for sale as fresh fruit. Often, the fruit can be sold for processing, however, the apple grower receives less money for the fruit.


Scab


Many areas experienced alot of rain early in the growing season. Diseases, such as Apple Scab occur when apple leaves and fruit stay wet for long periods of time. Temperatures must also be warm enough for the apple scab spores to germinate and infect apple tissue. Usually buds and leaves are infected early. The lesions here can later sporulate and spread the scab to the fruit via wind and rain. Apple scab groing on the fruit, like hail, can kick the fruit out of fresh market category to a processing category.


The various apple production regions may have experienced none to all of the above factors. Today, it looks like the fresh apple crop will be down this season. How much it will be down depends on many factors, including the rest of this year's growing season.

Japanese Beetle Time

Its July 4th weekend and the Japanese Beetle adults have emerged from the soil and will be mating and eating the foliage of many garden plants and ornamentals. July 4 is an average emergence date in the Ohio, Pennsylvania area. It may be different where you are.

Japanese Beetles spend about 11 months of the year below ground as a larvae called a grub. They pupate for about a month then emerge as adults. The life cycle may vary slightly within an area due to differences in temperature and moisture due to microclimates. Thus, you may find Japanese Beetle adults for more than 1 month, the typical length of time for an adult.

There are various ways to protect your garden plants and ornamentals from Japanese Beetle adult feeding. One way is called exclusion, or barrier. This is simply putting a netting of screening over your plants that a Japanese Beetle can not penetrate.

If Japanese Beetles are heavy in your area, you might want to use plants that are not well liked by Japanese Beetles and remove or avoid plants they like. For example, I have a Purple Sand Cherry that Japanese Beetles love. They also are attracted to blueberries, roses and grapes. Plants that are loved by Japanese Beetles will need extra work and monitoring to protect from extensive damage.

I won't discuss sprays for Japanese Beetles. Consult your local lawn and garden supplier of County Extension Office for pesticide recommendations. One trick that I learned long ago from an old timer is to keep a large soup or coffee can or bucket with some water with liquid dish soap in it. Walk around your infested plants and knock the adults into the can or bucket. The dish soap makes the water "wetter" by breaking surface tension of the water. The beetles hit the water and drown rather quickly due to the surfactant activity of the dish soap. A surfactant is really a "surface active agent". It is something that changes the characteristics of the water. Surfactants in dish soap loosen food particles by making the water "wetter".

One can buy Japanese Beetle bags. These bags attract adult male Japanese Beetles due to a pheromone lure. Pheromones are "sex"scents given off by the female adult Japanese Beetle in order to attract males for mating. Yes, placing a bag in your garden or lawn will attract male Japanese Beetles from your surrounding neighbor's lawns, trees, and garden. Hopefully these added visitors to your property will find their way into the bag where they become trapped. If they don't, they may find your blueberries, grapes, roses, or purple sand cherries.


The following tables are by Lee Townsend, Extension Entomologist University of Kentucky College of Agriculture.

Plant Selection

Careful selection of plant species when replacing or adding to your landscape is the key to avoiding an annual battle with Japanese beetles. Certain common landscape plants are inevitably attacked and may be poor choices where this insect is abundant (Table 1).

Table 1. Landscape plants nearly always severely attacked by adult Japanese beetles
Scientific name	Common name
Acer palmatum	Japanese Maple
Acer plananoides	Norway Maple
Aesculus hippocastanum	Horse chestnut
Betula populifolia	Gray birch
Castanea dentata	American chestnut
Nibiscus syriacus	Rose-of-Sharon, Shrub Althea
Juglans nigra	Black walnut
Malus species	Flowering crabapple, apple
Platanus acerifolia	London planetree
Populus nigra italica	Lombardy poplar
Prunus species	Cherry, black cherry, plum, peach etc.
Rosa species	Roses
Sassafras albidum	Sassafras
Sorbus americana	American mountain-ash
Tilia americana	American linden
Ulmus americana	American elm
Ulmus procera	English elm
Vitis species	Table Grapes

Plants which grow rapidly and are especially attractive to the beetles are most difficult to protect. Roses unfold quickly and are especially attractive to beetles. When beetles are abundant, nip buds and spray to protect the leaves or cover the roses with netting to keep beetles out.

Beetles are fond of certain weeds and non economic plants such as bracken, elder, multiflora rose, Indian mallow, sassafras, poison ivy, smartweed, wild fox grape and wild summer grape. Elimination of these plants whenever practical destroys these continuous sources of infestation.

Many common trees and shrubs are relatively less attractive to the beetles and using them can reduce the annual frustrations of the beetle season (Table 2).

Table 2. Landscape plants relatively free of feeding by adult Japanese beetles
Scientific name	Common name
Acer negundo	Boxelder*
Acer rubrum	Red maple
Acer saccharinum	Silver maple
Buxus sempervirens	Boxwood
Carya ovata	Shagbark hickory*
Cornus florida	Flowering dogwood
Diospyros virginiana	Persimmon*
Euonymus species	Euomymus (all species)
Fraxinus americana	White ash
Fraxinus pennsylvanica	Green ash
Ilex species	Holly (all species)
Juglans cinerea	y Butternut*
Lirodendron tulipifera	Tuliptree
Liquidamar styraciflua	American sweetgum*
Magnolia species	Magnolia (all species)
Morus rubra	Red mulberry
Populus alba	White poplar
Pyrus communis	Common pear
Quercus alba	White oak
Quercus coccinea	Scarlet oak
Quercus rubra	Red oak
Quercus velutina	Black oak
Rhododendron species	Rhododendron
Sambucus canadensis	American elder
Syringa vulgaris	Common lilac
Most evergreen ornamentals, including Abies (fir), Juniperus, Taxus, Thuja (arbovitae), Rhododendron, Picea (spruce), Pinus (pine) and Tsuga (hemlock) are not attacked.
*Unmarked species undergo little or no feeding. Species marked with an asterisk may suffer occasional light feeding.

precious heirlooms

If things like jewelry and artwork come to mind when you think of heirlooms, think again. Heirlooms just don’t come in the traditional items you are likely to see or bid on at an estate sale. You might be surprised to know that heirlooms also come in the form of certain varieties of plants and vegetables.

A recent trend has developed in heirloom vegetables, and many seed companies are supplying the shelves with different heirloom seed varieties. Much like a traditional heirloom, heirloom vegetables have come to be as a result of being grown for a certain amount of time. Vegetables are also considered to be heirlooms if the seeds have been passed down through a family or group who has worked to preserve them. Heirloom seeds are referred to as cultivars, which are a variety of plants that have been intentionally selected or created by cultivation practices.

Heirloom seeds must be open pollinated, since hybrids cannot be preserved by ordinary measures. After each crop, seeds are preserved for the following year’s harvest. Not only does this save the cost of buying more seed, it also produces similar plants from year to year. In contrast, a hybrid seed will not produce similar plants in the future years.


Taste, tenderness and other qualities of the vegetables are key factors in maintaining and developing heirlooms. Heirlooms also give growers a sense of satisfaction and connection to the production process from year to year. Some people are also interested in these varieties because they feel that heirloom varieties possess a better taste than compared to that of recently developed varieties.


For an heirloom to be preserved, it can’t be cross-pollinated with another variety and must be maintained in its existing state. The best way to prevent cross-pollination from happening is to grow only one variety of the vegetable. If you want to grow other varieties as well, keeping the varying specimens at a safe distance or isolated from your heirlooms with help protect from cross-pollination.


Varieties of heirloom vegetables are diverse and include anything from corn to okra. Some common heirloom vegetables include beans, potatoes, peppers, cucumbers, melons and tomatoes.

Cara Lawson is promotion specialist with Ohio Farm Bureau.

Garden Care and Maintenance - Tips on How to Get Value For Money

Whether you hire a professional gardener to maintain your garden, or care for it yourself, the same question arises. On what exactly, are you spending your money or your time? If you're spending money on a gardener, it's a matter of time is money. The more time the gardener has to spend, the more money you have to pay out. If on the other hand it is your time at stake, it's a question of how effectively you are using the most precious and irreplaceable resource at your disposal.

Garden care and maintenance is in fact an issue that ought to be considered at the design stage of the gardening process. There is little value in a design that will involve you in maintenance costs that you will not be able to keep up with. Therefore, your ability or willingness to deal with the plants is as important a consideration as their design or cultural suitability. Here then are some points worth examining.

Trees

Some trees, like palms or cypresses, require virtually no pruning at least for shaping purposes, as they naturally possess a strong, clear shape. Others, like elms and oaks, invariably need some intervention, while many fast-growing species, such as Tipuana or Peltophorum, need the constant supervision of a gardener whose expertise should approximate that of a tree surgeon.
The extent that a particular tree produces litter is an often overlooked factor. A species may be chosen because of its showy flowers, or edible fruit, only for these to end up being a real pest. Examples include the mess made by dates, Ficus berries, or the sticky flowers that fall from Jacaranda trees. Deciduous trees are often rejected out of hand on these grounds, yet their leaf drop is seasonal and usually of brief duration.

Shrubs and bushes

A clear decision has to be made whether the landscaping shrubs are to provide a loose, informal screen, or to be grown as a sheared hedge. While the growing of shrubs is rarely maintenance-free, maintaining a neatly trimmed hedge is altogether another matter in terms of time and money. If you do it yourself, will it be a labor of love, or a chore. If the latter is the case, what results are likely to ensue?

Climbing plants

Climbers are often thought of as easy plants to grow, because they just "do their own thing." This though is where the biggest errors are made, because of the all the different kinds of plants, they can be the most difficult to handle. Take Thunbergia grandiflora for example; it may cover a wall or fence very rapidly, sporting spectacular lilac flowers in the process, but then it just becomes an untidy, unmanageable tangle.

Bougainvillea though has to be the best case of an "expensive" plant to maintain. It combines rampant, thorny growth, with constant litter and mess. A customer of mine was shocked when I pointed out to her recently, that over half of the fee she pays me, simply goes on me sweeping and cleaning the fallen Bougainvillea bracts. "Do you think that is money well spent?" I asked.

My name is Jonathan Ya'akobi. I've been gardening in a professional capacity since 1984. I am the former head gardener of the Jerusalem Botanical Garden, but now concentrate on building gardens for private home owners. I also teach horticulture to students on training courses. I'd love to help you get the very best from your garden, so you're welcome to visit me on http://www.dryclimategardening.com/ or contact me at jonathan@dryclimategardening.com

Viburnum Leaf Beetle Woes

Viburnum Leaf Beetle Pyrrhalta viburni (Paykull) is moving southward in NW Pennsylvania. I have recently discovered Viburnum Leaf Beetle 45 miles south of Erie, PA. The photos, in this blog, are from wild Viburnums infested with and defoliated by the Viburnum Leaf Beetle. The Viburnum Leaf Beetle shots were taken on May 23, 2008.

Viburnum Leaf Beetle is an invasive isect pest that will kill a Viburnum plant in 2-3 years. This is because the larvae are voracious feeders and eat the first leaves of the season. They then drop to the ground, pupate, and emerge as adults. Adults of the Viburnum Leaf Beetle feed on the leaves. Thus a plant will be defoliated twice each season, lose energy from lack of foliage, and die.

Viburnum Leaf Beetle will attack both wild and domestic Viburnums. Different cultivars vary in susceptibility to Viburnum Leaf Beetle.

Viburnum Leaf Beetle originated in Europe and entered the US in New York in 1996. It has been moving west and south for years. New York has had severe problem with Viburnum Leaf Beetle for a number of years. Cornell University has extensive information about Viburnum Leaf Beetle on it's website. Google Viburnum Leaf Beetle Cornell and you will be amazed at the information you will receive.

Control of Viburnum Leaf Beetle is best on young larvae. Insecticidal soaps and oil can be used in Mid-April when larvae first hatch, or slightly before hatch. Insecticides may knock down Viburnum Leaf Beetle larvae and adults in emergency situations. Consult your local County Extension office for assistance.

Do I Need to Hire an Arborist?

Much of the time, the trees that adorn the properties of our homes and businesses do not need our attention to thrive. Sometimes, however, a tree needs specialized care in order to coexist safely in an environment surrounded by people and animals as well as buildings, automobiles, roads and power lines. Neglect of a tree in need of treatment or repair can quickly turn a beloved shade tree into an eyesore and an imminent hazard.
If a tree is damaged, diseased, or dead, it represents a real threat to people, animals, other trees and structures in its vicinity. Bearing in mind the unforeseeable extent of harm that may ensue if a tree fails, the need for proper tree care becomes blatantly obvious. But how can you tell whether the situation warrants the advice and service of a certified arborist?
Many property owners attempt to manage tree problems on their own in effort to save a few bucks. While DIY tree care may seemingly save money up front, long term tree damage and bodily injury can result from a lack of knowledge of proper tree maintenance and treatment. Even attempting a job that appears simple on the surface, such as pruning branches that have grown too close to your home, can quickly go awry if handled by a non-professional. Aside from damage to a tree that can result from pruning its branches incorrectly, damage to the home caused by your negligence is likely not going to be covered by your homeowners insurance. Tree service professionals have the experience to get the job done without damaging the tree or your home, and are covered by insurance to protect your valuable assets in the event that an accident does occur (ensure that an arborist carries insurance against personal and property damage prior to hiring).
A major problem with DIY tree care is that the average person does not have the background knowledge to identify potential hazards. While to the average person a tree may appear normal and healthy, a certified arborist can identify obscure symptoms of structural weakness, insect infestations, disease or death that may call for an alternative means of treatment or constitute tree removal altogether.
A certified arborist can correct tree issues that have already developed, but can also prevent future problems by identifying and correcting potential hazards. For instance, some trees grow in a pattern that eventually leads them to become too unstable to support their own weight. Left untreated, an unbalanced tree can fail unexpectedly, endangering everyone and everything in its path at that unfortunate moment. However, the same tree can be saved if its condition is identified in advance. An experienced arborist can identify the potential for structural weakness and employ techniques such as cabling and bracing to help support the tree and encourage a healthier growth pattern. Hiring an arborist is advised if your trees have never been professionally inspected, even if they show no obvious signs of problems.
If you own any trees that are in questionable health, have incurred damage or have never been inspected for problems, it is advised that you enlist the services of a certified arborist in your local area. The International Society of Arboriculture website is a valuable resource for locating a certified arborist in your area or verifying ISA certification of an arborist you are considering.
About the Author: Andrew Johnson is the owner of Central Texas Tree Care, a leading Austin Texas tree service provider in Central Texas (Travis County and surrounding areas). Central Texas Tree Care offers services such as pruning and removals, cabling and bracing as well as arborist reports, diagnostics, pest management and fertilization.
Article Source: A_I_Johnson

Controlling Crabgrass with Corn?

Three years ago, I set up two scientific weed control trials, in a home lawn and bare soil, using an organic herbicide made from corn gluten (available commercially from a lawn and garden store), versus corn gluten feed additive obtained from a local feed mill. The reason for doing this was cost. I could buy the corn gluten from the mill for $7.00 per 100 lbs. and the organic herbicide, made from corn gluten, cost $35.00 per 50 lbs. or 10 times as much.

A university researcher, from Iowa, I think, discovered that weed growth was inhibited where corn kernals were lying in the soil in the year following the corn crop. It was deduced that a chemical substance was being leached from the corn into the soil and this was inhibiting weed seed germination. Tests have shown this to be true.

All treatments were replicated 4 times in a randomized complete block design, in plots that measured 10 x 10 feet. I applied the corn gluten herbicides at a rate of 2 lbs. per acre through a shaker jar to evenly distribute the rate over the plot. Untreated check plots were included as part of the randomized trial.

Weeds in the trials were crabgrass and oxalis, in the turf, and common ragweed, and barnyardgrass in the bare soil site. Literature researched on this topic indicated to apply the corn gluten early to give it time to weather into the soil and leach the natural chemical substances that provide control of germinating weeds.

The turf application was made in April and weed control was evaluated at 50 days post treatment. Bare soil was treated in May and evaluated 50 days later in July. Evaluations were made by visual estimation compared to the untreated check plots.

Results show that the corn gluten herbicide was significantly more effective than the corn gluten meal in both trials. The corn gluten herbicide provided significant control compared to the untreated check. Control in turf was 50% and nearly 100% in the bare soil study.

Why the difference in weed control between corn gluten herbicide and corn gluten meal? I speculate it is in the formulation of the product. The corn gluten meal was very coarse-ground whereas the corn gluten based herbicide was very fine and uniform. Thus, there was more particulate surface area to weather and leach into the soil. Coverage was more uniform with the commercial corn gluten herbicide because it had uniform size and dispersed better from the shaker jar.

I did not grind up the corn gluten meal to test my hypothesis. I believe using corn gluten based herbicides can be an alternative to chemical herbicides. Give it time to work, so start early in the spring before crabgrass germinates (before forsynthia petal fall). Corn prices have risen in the past year or two so check with your feed mill before trying corn gluten meal.

A plus to the turf trial, I could see the effect the following season as enhanced green turf. The corn acted as a fertilizer the following year.

Grubs, Grubs, Grubs!

Grubs, what are grubs? What are the symptoms of grubs? Where do grubs come from? What do grubs eat? How do you control grubs?

Let's answer these questions about grubs. Grubs are the larval form of beetles. There are many species of grubs in the northeastern USA. Perhaps the most common species of grubs is Japanese Beetle.

Grubs can be identified, as to species, by looking at the pattern of hairs, called "raster", located on their butts. Use of a hand lens helps to see the raster pattern. Control of grubs will vary according to species present. If multiple species of grubs are present, not all species may be controlled by the same method of control.

You know you have grubs if you have holes torn in your lawn. Birds and animals, such as skunks, dig up turf in search of grubs for food. During dry conditions, patches of turf may brown up as a result of grubs eating off the roots. This may not be evident under wet conditions or irrigation. Try tugging on the turf, if it rolls up like a carpet, the roots have been chewed, you probably have grubs.

Grubs may be attracted to your lawn (rather the adult beetles) by lights, trees, and moist or dry conditions. Again there are variations by species of grubs. In my yard, I have a Purple Sand Cherry that attracts Japanese Beetles like you wouldn't believe. Adults will mate and lay their eggs in the soil.

Grubs, being underground, push soil, organic matter, and all things into their mouths. Grubs derive nutrition from the organic matter, i.e. plant roots. I once collected grubs from a golf course and placed them in styrofoam cups to take back to the lab for identification. The grubs ate their way through the cups.

There are many products to control grubs. Grub control products range from organic to chemical form. Key to controlling grubs is species identification. Grubs are grubs about 10 months out of the year. By knowing the species, one can look up the average life cycle for your area. In my area, July 4 is the average date when adult Japanese Beetles emerge from the soil and start flying. Mating and egg-laying occurs the end of July and grubs begin to grow throughout August until cold weather sets in.

Grubs go deeper into the soil as temperatures fall to overwinter. In the Spring, they move up toward the surface as soil temperatures rise.

Timing of grub control is very important, depending on the type of control you choose. If using a pesticide product to control grubs, always read the label before you buy the product, and before you use the product. Follow the label, in every detail, for safety to you, the environment, as well as effective use of the product.

The strategy you use to control grubs will depend on a number of factors, such as the history of grubs in your lawn, the pressure of grubs (how many grubs per square foot?), the species of grubs, as well as expenses involved. A few grubs per square foot may be less tolerable during a dry year than many more grubs per square foot in a wet year. Pesticide products vary by mode of action, i.e. contact the grubs or do the grubs need to ingest the product?

There are many local professionals who can assist you with your problems with grubs. Contact a REPUTABLE professional or your university cooperative extension for assistance.

Artillery Fungus

Artillery fungus is a fungi that commonly grows on mulch made from wood rather than bark. It may be related to cup fungi commonly referred to as bird's nest fungi.

It is called artillery fungus because is shoots its spore mass like artillery. The problem is it points the artillery at high light mass such as a shiny car or siding on a house as it shoots. Once the spores land, they "glue" themselves to the surface and are, in many cases, impossible to clean.

Insurance companies may not pay for damage to siding or automobiles because they may consider it mold damage. A friend of mine with the artillery fungus spore problem on her aluminum siding tried everything she could think of to remove the spores. She said that the white eraser on the end of some ink pens was the only thing that effectively removed the spores.

A take home here is be careful in choosing your mulch. Select a mulch with a low wood and high bark content. Artillery fungus does not grow on bark.

The Myth of Lawn Rolling

Spring is here. The ground is moist. Time to get the roller out and flatten the lawn. Not! Lawn rolling is one of the worst things you could do for the health of your turfgrass.

The soil is composed of organic material, mineral material, and pore space. The pore space, when dry, is filled with air (oxygen). After a rain, the pores may be filled with water. Rolling compacts the pore space, creating compaction. Compacted soil hold less oxygen for the plant to exchange, and less water for the plant.

Nutrients are available to the turf plant through the water in the soil. A compacted soil, when dry, may turn rock-hard. Rain will tend to run-off a site that is compacted rather than permeate down into the soil. Root growth is restricted when the soil is hardened by compaction.

Turfgrass growing on compacted soil is not going to be as healthy as that growing on aerated soil. If you want a beautiful lawn, avoid the temptation of rolling.

Lawn Mowing in Times of High Gas Prices

Gasoline prices are approaching $4.00 per gallon. What can you do to cut back on lawn mowing? Buy sheep or goats? Not necessarily! You could cut back on nitrogen fertilization.

Nitrogen, or N, the first letter in the N-P-K fertilizer analysis on a bag of fertilizer, is what causes the growth of the green portion of plants. By cutting back of the amount of N applied, your turfgrass will not grow as fast, thus fewer mowings are necessary.



Another thing, the cost of fertilizer has risen substantially this season. Petroleum and fertilizer costs rise hand-in-hand. Fertilizing with P and K (Phosphorus and Potassium) promotes root and plant health, thus one can still fertilize and not promote as much green tissue growth.





Liming, in the Spring, acts like fertilizer and could promote a flush of green grass growth. It is best to obtain a soil test before adding any lime or fertilizer. If you need help reading your test results, contact your local cooperative extension office for assistance.

Attracting Beneficial Insects to Your Landscape

What are beneficial insects? These are insects that are helping your landscape and not causing harm by feeding on your crop, landscape plants, or turfgrass. Typically, beneficials feed on insects that are causing harm (pests).

Many of the beneficials are related to bees and wasps and serve two-fold: as pollinators and as predators of pest insects. To attract beneficials, plant a diverse landscape. By diverse, I mean a variety of kinds of plants so that you have flowering going on at various times and differences in shading, leafing, plant height, etc.

Since many predator insects are bees and wasps, they derive nutrition from flowers. This helps sustain their population levels when pests are not present. They need a place for shelter also. The worst thing you could do for the beneficials is have a monoculture (one kind of plant). In this situation, pest levels would build to high levels before enough beneficials could be attracted to feed and reduce the population.

Pests levels would build, beneficials levels would build. Pests levels would crash, followed by beneficials levels as their food source is depleted.

Keep Raccoons Out!

Raccoons, though cute, tend to get vicious and mean as they age. They also are a major carrier of rabies. Keep them out of your lawn and garden area. They can cause damage to pets, plants, property, as well as being a health hazard.

Animals become pests when they cause damage, are a danger, or are unwanted. All living things require the basics of water, food, and shelter to survive. By keeping your lawn and garden area free of these basics, you will discourage raccoons from becoming a permanent part of your landscape. If you have outdoor pets, such as cats, becareful that the recoons are not feasting on the cat food or pet water, you get the idea.

A physical barrier, such as wire fencing may keep them away, but this can be expensive. Putting a ring of agricultural lime around your garden not only "sweeten" your soil. Racoons do not like to walk through it and will stay away once they get lime on their paws. Similarly, they do not like the smell of mothballs and will stay away.

I used mothballs to drive a raccoon that was hiding in a crawlspace out(better than smoke that did not work). Raccoons get along with cats but dogs also tend to challenge them and they will be discouraged to stay.

Toxic Mulch Syndrome

Spring is the time for adding mulch to your garden flower beds. If you are using an organic-based mulch, are you familiar with your source? Mulch should not be piled, in the mulch storage yard, so deep that it can not be frequently turned for aeration. If it is piled high and not turned frequently, toxins, in the form of alcohols may build within the pile.

This is the result of fermentation and anaerobic degradation of the organic materials. The result could be death to your annual plants that you have mulched, as well as damage to adjacent turfgrass. The alcohols and toxins "flash burn" these tender plants, and if annuals, kill them. The burn could severely damage perennial plants.

The effect from the toxins usually disappears following a rain or irrigation, or just evaporation of the alcohols from the area. Can you tell ahead of time if the mulch is toxic? Yes, it stinks! Avoid, at all costs, any mulch that has a very strong odor. Do not confuse this with the normal smell from some mulches, i.e. pine, eucalyptis, etc. Toxic mulch oder permeates the air and just does not smell good.

Lawn and Garden Tips for your home

I have many years of lawn and garden education and experience and have decided to use these to benefit you and your lawn and garden.......we will also give you lawn and garden resourses that will make your lawn and garden beautiful.