Monday, July 28, 2008

Mosquito Traps - How to Get Rid of Mosquitoes While Sipping Daiquiris on the Veranda

Mosquitoes were made for hunting humans, what with their compound eyes capable of spotting the slightest movements and receptors so sensitive, they can detect the smell of exhaled breath. Lucky for us, those same abilities also tend to lead them straight into mosquito traps.

The traps work by mimicking the smell and sight of prey, fooling mosquitoes into sensing a blood meal close at hand. But when they get near, powerful fans capture them and force them into containers. Once in, they can't get out, and the mosquitoes die.

A good mosquito trap, properly placed and used, can attract and kill thousands of mosquitoes in a single night, while you are left free to enjoy your yard undisturbed. Over a period of a couple of months, the trap can decimate, possibly even collapse, the local mosquito population.

All it takes is a little work to get the machine set up and some regular, but minor maintenance to ensure peak performance. The mosquito trap will do the rest.

Unfortunately, mosquito control is a complicated task, and there isn't one easy solution. Mosquito traps by themselves won't make your insect troubles disappear altogether, but they are an integral part of keeping your home comfortable and safe.

Mosquitoes are always just a breath away

To understand the way a mosquito trap works, you first need to understand how and why mosquitoes hunt us.

OK, have you ever wondered how mosquitoes always seem to be able to find you, even in the dark? It's mostly your breath. That's not a joke. Simply exhaling is enough to draw in a blood-hungry mosquito.

When you let out a breath, tiny amounts of carbon dioxide are released into the air. Those little plumes of CO2 rise up and drift along on the breeze.

Mosquitoes have extremely sensitive receptors on their antennae that can detect trace amounts of CO2. They fly into the wind, searching for those traces, and, when they find them, follow the smell of the exhaled gas to its source.

According to University of Florida researchers, the CO2 plume from a person's breath can stir the senses of mosquitoes as far as 40 miles away. Fortunately, most mosquitoes can only fly one to three miles, tops.

As the mosquitoes get closer to the source, their two compound eyes - large rounded globes covered with tiny individual lenses - pick up movement and color, while their ocelli, or simple eyes, sense light waves.

People moving around, wearing bright colors, near electric lights are sure to catch their attention.

We smell like food to mosquitoes

Once mosquitoes are within 20 or 30 feet, their scent receptors begin to detect other smells, too.

That includes lactic acid on the skin and octenol, a chemical found in our sweat and in the exhalation of cows. Beyond that, human skin produces more than 340 chemical odors, and some smell better to mosquitoes than others, although which ones and why are still matters of research.

The task of identifying the smells is difficult because mosquitoes are attracted not by single odors, but by combinations of them. Figuring out the right combos depends mainly on time-consuming trial and error.

US Department of Agriculture scientists do know that mosquitoes are attracted by the smell of dirty socks and Limburger cheese - apparently the same bacteria develops on both - and they're also fond of certain soaps, lotions and perfumes, when combined with the natural smells of certain people.

Mosquitoes have shown preferences for people who excrete high amounts of uric acid and cholesterol through their skin, as well as people with high amounts of B vitamins in their systems. They also tend to choose larger people and pregnant women, likely because of the larger amounts of CO2 exhaled.

Basically, the more you sweat and the harder you breathe, the more attractive you are going to be to mosquitoes.

The mosquito moves in for the bite

The final giveaway is body temperature.

Sensors on the antennae can feel heat radiating from a person's body, helping the mosquito zero in on its prey. Exertion, alcohol, even wearing dark clothes - which radiate heat - can make you a hotter target.

Mosquitoes use the heat sensors to find capillaries pulsing with blood near the surface.

Now this may surprise you: When the bite comes, it will always come from a female mosquito. Both males and females feed on fruit and plant nectar, but only the female takes blood meals.

The females do it not for the food, but to aid in the reproductive process. Their eggs are fertilized by males within days of emerging from the pupal cocoon. However, their eggs don't fully develop until they've taken in protein from blood.

The mosquito lands and sinks her proboscis into the skin. The proboscis is a long, slender mouthpart with a pointed end for piercing. It contains two tubes, one which draws in blood, and a second that injects anti-coagulants to help keep the blood flowing.

She feeds until her abdomen is full, then flies away to rest a couple of days until she is ready to lay her eggs. At least, that's how it is supposed to happen.

Bug research leads to mosquito traps

Entomologists and mosquito control experts need specimens to examine, and that means they have to trap them.

For many years, they did it with the New Jersey Light Trap. Like its name implies, it is a simple device that uses a plain 25-watt bulb to draw mosquitoes toward a cylinder with a hidden fan that sucks the mosquitoes into a catch area.

But as scientists learned more about attractants, they began to incorporate them into the standard light traps. For example, knowing that carbon dioxide lures mosquitoes, they started adding dry ice, which releases the gas, increasing the numbers of mosquitoes lured in for the catch.

Studies showed that mosquito traps that used CO2 could catch 10-15 times more mosquitoes in a night than a New Jersey Light Trap.

In the late '90s, private companies got into the research, experimenting with human skin odors and ultraviolet light waves, and soon, there were newer, more efficient commercial mosquito traps on the market for home use.

All mosquito traps use some variation of the same four basic attractants to draw the insects: CO2, octenol, light, and heat. The differences lie in the designs of the attractants and the ways they are employed.

How do mosquito traps work?

One of the most successful mosquito trap brands, the Mega Catch, depends mainly on its unique lighting array and automated dispersal of synthetic human fragrance.

The machine fires off oscillating frequencies of visible and UV light that have been proven to attract the attention of mosquitoes. At the same time, the machine releases plumes of octenol to excite the insects' scent sensors.

Inside the Mega Catch traps, infrared heat sources give off warmth similar to a human body, luring the mosquitoes even closer. Once they are near enough, a fan catches them and forces them into a container.

Some models of the traps also use cannisters that release trace amounts of CO2 to mix with the octenol, increasing the effectiveness of the trap four-fold. Mega Catch traps, particularly the models that use both CO2 and octenol, can draw insects from as much as 150 feet away.

According to the American Mosquito Control Association, "A number of studies have shown that traps using CO2 and (octenol) normally catch numbers of mosquitoes several orders of magnitude more than their solely CO2-baited counterparts."

While the organization does not endorse specific products, it reports that the science behind the traps is solid.

Public health researchers in Australia tested the Mega Catch Mosquito Traps against another popular brand in 2004 and found that the Mega Catch mosquito trap outperformed the other on 10 of 12 nights, capturing more than 44,000 female mosquitoes from 17 species. The other trap caught 24,000 mosquitoes.

In another test conducted by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, the Mega Catch trapped more than 3,700 mosquitoes in a residential Florida neighborhood in one night, about three times more than a another brand of trap.

Clearing the mosquitoes from the air

Again, mosquito traps, even highly effective ones, aren't going to eliminate your mosquito problems entirely.

You still need to practice good mosquito control around your home by preventing standing water, employing biological controls, and possibly spraying. You'll also have to remember to use your mosquito trap properly and maintain it regularly.

One key to getting the most from your mosquito trap is making sure you put it in the proper place.

Don't put it near people because that just draws the mosquitoes toward their targets. The best placement is upwind, between the source of the mosquitoes - a neighbor's overgrown yard, or a nearby pond - and the spot where people gather, probably your deck or patio.

If possible, put the trap somewhere shaded because mosquitoes try to avoid the sun.

And don't only turn the trap on while you're outside. Run it continuously through mosquito season, especially during the peak feeding hours. Traps like the Mega Catch have settings that can turn the machine on and off at certain pre-selected times.

Remember, the more female mosquitoes you trap and kill, the fewer there will be to lay eggs. In six to eight weeks, the population will decrease to the point of collapse.

Occasionally, you'll need to clean out the catch containers, add new CO2 cannisters, and change out fresh octenol strips.

And then it should not be long before the whining of biting insects becomes an uncommon sound in your backyard.

Want to know more about getting rid of mosquitoes with Mosquito Traps? You can read more at - http://www.megacatch.com

Article Source: Ken Child

Landscaping Does Not Have to Cost a Second Mortgage

Foundation planting is a process popular among home builders and home owners, as it enhances the dimensions of your house and relates it to the ground. The most widely use foundation plant is evergreens, both for their stature and style and because of their ability to prosper in the shade.

If there are no evergreen plantings elsewhere on the property though, the process of evergreens around the house may give off a sinister or forbidding vibe. In this case you can resort to a variety of other options, like flowering shrubs, roses, or dwarf fruit trees in spring climes, and quince, forsythia or Japanese redleaf barberry, among others, in summer time.

In the planning stages for your foundation planning, consider the elevation of your house, at least as it relates to the immediate wall facing the planting, and also the size of the shrubs or trees you're considering planting when fully grown. You want to avoid blocking off windows with your plantings, as this will obscure your view and make your room gloomier. In the case of a wall which faces another home's wall with just a short distance between, this may not be a bad option though.

The entrance is generally the most important visual point of your house, so landscape brick plus planting to highlight your entrance and/or front porch is a good idea. Plantings in front of the porch and around the front walls of the house should be kept low and bowl-shaped to give the impression of a broader base and larger house.

For your backyard area, you can keep it attractive and elegant while still allowing room for the children to frolic about. While it may be tempting to place flower or plant beds all around the backyard, you should limit these to a small area that the kids will know to avoid playing around. Having a sunken or raised sandbox for the kids to play in is a great idea, though you may want to keep an eye on the cat or dog to make sure they aren't using it as their personal facilities.

Your yard will also need to contain service areas and a drying yard if needed. These areas should be out of sight from the patio, preferably tucked behind the garage or a shed, but close enough that they aren't an extra inconvenience. Remember that your compost pit should be a good distance away from any garden you may plan on having, so plan this in advance. Garden are ideal close to the back door, while the compost bin can be tucked in a far corner of the yard, along with piles of fire wood, a tool shed or storage locker, and any other services needed.

Vegetable gardens are a great source of fresh food that can prove quite bountiful. Tomato plants especially will likely need to be placed alongside fences and tied to them for support, otherwise you'll need to employ a lattice. These should also be shielded from the elements if possible by being tucked away into corners.

Article Source: Thomas Fyrd

Sunday, July 13, 2008

How are Your Apples?

What will the 2008 apple crop be like? Only One knows for sure; and it is early. Right now, major US apple growing regions have been hit with a number of things that will affect the quality and quantity of this year's crop.

Frost


Earlier this Spring, frosts affected some apples in Washington State and Michigan. Fruit buds were killed, thus reducing some of the crop's potential.

June Drop


Apples in some areas, such as Michigan, experienced a very heavy June drop this year. Apple trees normally shed fruit this time of year. Growers also intentionally thin the crop in order to grow larger fruit. When too much drops, yield potential is decreased.


Hail


There have been a number of thunderstorms across Michigan, New York, Pennsylvania, and Virginia that have been hit by hail. Hail can damage the fruit, knocking it out of contention for sale as fresh fruit. Often, the fruit can be sold for processing, however, the apple grower receives less money for the fruit.


Scab


Many areas experienced alot of rain early in the growing season. Diseases, such as Apple Scab occur when apple leaves and fruit stay wet for long periods of time. Temperatures must also be warm enough for the apple scab spores to germinate and infect apple tissue. Usually buds and leaves are infected early. The lesions here can later sporulate and spread the scab to the fruit via wind and rain. Apple scab groing on the fruit, like hail, can kick the fruit out of fresh market category to a processing category.


The various apple production regions may have experienced none to all of the above factors. Today, it looks like the fresh apple crop will be down this season. How much it will be down depends on many factors, including the rest of this year's growing season.

Saturday, July 5, 2008

Japanese Beetle Time


Its July 4th weekend and the Japanese Beetle adults have emerged from the soil and will be mating and eating the foliage of many garden plants and ornamentals. July 4 is an average emergence date in the Ohio, Pennsylvania area. It may be different where you are.

Japanese Beetles spend about 11 months of the year below ground as a larvae called a grub. They pupate for about a month then emerge as adults. The life cycle may vary slightly within an area due to differences in temperature and moisture due to microclimates. Thus, you may find Japanese Beetle adults for more than 1 month, the typical length of time for an adult.

There are various ways to protect your garden plants and ornamentals from Japanese Beetle adult feeding. One way is called exclusion, or barrier. This is simply putting a netting of screening over your plants that a Japanese Beetle can not penetrate.

If Japanese Beetles are heavy in your area, you might want to use plants that are not well liked by Japanese Beetles and remove or avoid plants they like. For example, I have a Purple Sand Cherry that Japanese Beetles love. They also are attracted to blueberries, roses and grapes. Plants that are loved by Japanese Beetles will need extra work and monitoring to protect from extensive damage.

I won't discuss sprays for Japanese Beetles. Consult your local lawn and garden supplier of County Extension Office for pesticide recommendations. One trick that I learned long ago from an old timer is to keep a large soup or coffee can or bucket with some water with liquid dish soap in it. Walk around your infested plants and knock the adults into the can or bucket. The dish soap makes the water "wetter" by breaking surface tension of the water. The beetles hit the water and drown rather quickly due to the surfactant activity of the dish soap. A surfactant is really a "surface active agent". It is something that changes the characteristics of the water. Surfactants in dish soap loosen food particles by making the water "wetter".

One can buy Japanese Beetle bags. These bags attract adult male Japanese Beetles due to a pheromone lure. Pheromones are "sex"scents given off by the female adult Japanese Beetle in order to attract males for mating. Yes, placing a bag in your garden or lawn will attract male Japanese Beetles from your surrounding neighbor's lawns, trees, and garden. Hopefully these added visitors to your property will find their way into the bag where they become trapped. If they don't, they may find your blueberries, grapes, roses, or purple sand cherries.


The following tables are by Lee Townsend, Extension Entomologist University of Kentucky College of Agriculture.

Plant Selection

Careful selection of plant species when replacing or adding to your landscape is the key to avoiding an annual battle with Japanese beetles. Certain common landscape plants are inevitably attacked and may be poor choices where this insect is abundant (Table 1).

Table 1. Landscape plants nearly always severely attacked by adult Japanese beetles
Scientific name Common name
Acer palmatum Japanese Maple
Acer plananoides Norway Maple
Aesculus hippocastanum Horse chestnut
Betula populifolia Gray birch
Castanea dentata American chestnut
Nibiscus syriacus Rose-of-Sharon, Shrub Althea
Juglans nigra Black walnut
Malus species Flowering crabapple, apple
Platanus acerifolia London planetree
Populus nigra italica Lombardy poplar
Prunus species Cherry, black cherry, plum, peach etc.
Rosa species Roses
Sassafras albidum Sassafras
Sorbus americana American mountain-ash
Tilia americana American linden
Ulmus americana American elm
Ulmus procera English elm
Vitis species Table Grapes

Plants which grow rapidly and are especially attractive to the beetles are most difficult to protect. Roses unfold quickly and are especially attractive to beetles. When beetles are abundant, nip buds and spray to protect the leaves or cover the roses with netting to keep beetles out.

Beetles are fond of certain weeds and non economic plants such as bracken, elder, multiflora rose, Indian mallow, sassafras, poison ivy, smartweed, wild fox grape and wild summer grape. Elimination of these plants whenever practical destroys these continuous sources of infestation.

Many common trees and shrubs are relatively less attractive to the beetles and using them can reduce the annual frustrations of the beetle season (Table 2).

Table 2. Landscape plants relatively free of feeding by adult Japanese beetles
Scientific name Common name
Acer negundo Boxelder*
Acer rubrum Red maple
Acer saccharinum Silver maple
Buxus sempervirens Boxwood
Carya ovata Shagbark hickory*
Cornus florida Flowering dogwood
Diospyros virginiana Persimmon*
Euonymus species Euomymus (all species)
Fraxinus americana White ash
Fraxinus pennsylvanica Green ash
Ilex species Holly (all species)
Juglans cinerea y Butternut*
Lirodendron tulipifera Tuliptree
Liquidamar styraciflua American sweetgum*
Magnolia species Magnolia (all species)
Morus rubra Red mulberry
Populus alba White poplar
Pyrus communis Common pear
Quercus alba White oak
Quercus coccinea Scarlet oak
Quercus rubra Red oak
Quercus velutina Black oak
Rhododendron species Rhododendron
Sambucus canadensis American elder
Syringa vulgaris Common lilac
Most evergreen ornamentals, including Abies (fir), Juniperus, Taxus, Thuja (arbovitae), Rhododendron, Picea (spruce), Pinus (pine) and Tsuga (hemlock) are not attacked.
*Unmarked species undergo little or no feeding. Species marked with an asterisk may suffer occasional light feeding.